A panel of Persian Naksh-e Isfahani embroidery

Qajar Iran, first half of the 19th century.

Worked in silk tent stitch with a characteristic design of diagonal bands filled with stylised flowers on a plain weave cotton ground, this panel is an example of the dense and intricate embroidery that was made - mainly in Isfahan, but also in Yazd and Kashan - to be joined to make the cuffed bottoms of shalwar, the voluminous traditional trousers worn by women.

The diagonal lines were stitched first, in order that the floral motifs might then follow this framework and fill the ground entirely. When applied to the shalwar the design was inverted, so that the wearer saw the pattern from the correct perspective. Also known as Gilet Persan, these textiles were valued not only for the design and the painstaking technique employed in their creation, but also for the durability inherent in nature of the embroidery, and their versatility. The popularity of Naksh (or Naqšeh) grew in popularity from the latter years of the 18th century, and the panels were often removed when the rest of the garment was worn out so that they might be used again.

This panel has been bordered with a 19th century Persian braid, woven with a design of trailing flowers in silk and metal thread.

The V & A has several panels of a similar type that can be seen here, while a similar braid is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, accession number: 09.50.2050.

With restorations, and a small loss to the braid at one corner.

73cm (28¾) high and 56.5cm (22¼) wide