A panel of Persian nakshe embroidery

First half of the 19th century

The plain weave cotton ground worked in silk with a characteristic design of diagonal bands filled with stylised flowers. This is an example of the dense and intricate embroidery that was made - mainly in Isfahan, but also in Yazd and Kashan - in order to be joined to make the cuffed bottoms of shalwar, the voluminous traditional trousers worn by women.

The diagonal lines were stitched first, in order that the floral motifs might then follow this framework and fill the ground entirely, and when applied to the shalwar the design was inverted, so that the wearer saw the pattern from the correct perspective.

Also known as Gilet Persan, these textiles were valued not only for the design, and the painstaking technique employed in their creation, but also for their durability and versatility. The popularity of Nakshe increased from the latter years of the 18th century, and the panels were often removed so that they might be used again after the rest of the garment had deteriorated.

The textile 14.9cm (5⅞”) high and 47.7cm (18¾”) wide, edged with silver braid and laid on terracotta linen, in a frame 27.6cm (10⅞”) high and 56.2cm (22⅛”) wide.